Somewhere in Cape May County, New Jersey, a brewery has looked at the humble kingfish, decided it needed more royal recognition, and put an actual crown on its can. This is the kind of confident decision-making I can get behind. Slack Tide Brewing Co's newest release doesn't just borrow the fish's name, it commits to the bit entirely, and the beer inside is just as self-assured.
Kingfish is a Kolsch, which is the style equivalent of a diplomat: it exists specifically to make peace between two warring factions, in this case ales and lagers. Slack Tide describes it as striking the perfect balance between the two, and at 4.8% ABV it's not asking much of you beyond showing up thirsty. On the pour you get a brilliant, straw-gold clarity topped with a delicate white foam, which is a fancy way of saying it looks exactly like a beer should look on a billboard advertising summer.
The aroma brings subtle notes of fresh baked bread with a faint, pleasant hint of noble hops, so somewhere between a bakery and a hop farm had a very polite conversation and this is the result. On the palate it's light-bodied with a soft malt sweetness that gives way to a crisp, dry snap at the finish, the beer equivalent of a firm handshake followed by someone immediately changing the subject to something more fun.
Slack Tide has been quietly building a reputation in Cape May County for beers that don't overthink themselves, and Kingfish continues that tradition. It's not chasing pastry-stout theatrics or hop bombs that require a safety briefing. It's just trying to be extremely drinkable, and by the sound of it, succeeding.
Kingfish hits the tasting room Thursday, July 9th. Given that a Poshmark vendor and a cake decorating class are also apparently competing for your Thursday attention at Slack Tide this month, the brewery is clearly not short on ideas for how to get you through the door. The beer, at least, requires no instructions. Just a glass, and perhaps a small bow to the fish wearing the crown.